Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a global network of over 400 urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of seventy urban centers worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the spotlight for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly assessed by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was invented to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their younger generation do not want to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will motivate more people worldwide to explore these tales and visit the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
